Dec. 11 -- Fox Glacier

Dec. 10, 2008
Fox Glacier

Just back from my first overnight tramp! Copland Valley was b'doss, tho not what I expected.
First, I thought it would be packed. There are so many tourists here, and these tracks are so well-organized by the Dept of Conservation, that I pictured being in train the whole time. Not so: I saw only 2 people yesterday, and 5 today. amazing!

Second, I thought the track (trail) would be a clean, well-graded single-track. Not so at all -- the track itself was crazy and demanding: multiple hairy creek crossings, quicksand, slippery rocks, muddy slopes, slippery wet roots, washouts...there was even a chain at one point and you had to "rappel" down the side of a creek-cut gorge.

Third, the NZ rainforest ain't the Sierra.....the growth is lush and impenetrable; I saw only 2 places clear and flat enough to throw up a tent on the whole track. It's a lot more like Costa Rica. Trying to go cross-country here would be insane....Definitely would need a machete...or better yet, a bulldozer.

Fourth, there's no critters! It's fucking bizarre. You have this warm, wet, green environment...but not a single spiderweb, newt, butterfly, wasp, frog...and only the very occasional bird call. I'm told this is "normal" or "natural", but I don't understand how that is possible? critters made it to all of the other Pacific islands, right?

Fifth, I never thought I'd stay in a hut...too much of a purist, bla bla bla. however, after 4 tough hours of trudging, the Architect Creek Hut was a welcome sanctuary. Firing up the pot-bellied stove, I felt that all I needed was a rocking chair and a corncob pipe.

Sixth, a big storm came in this morning. What is the deal with the weather here? The weather has been chaotic since my arrival (an observation repeatedly corroborated by the locals). Plus, the dumb-ass weather forecast never, ever gets it right down here. I would not have gone out if I knew a big storm was rolling in -- those cricks can quickly become impassable.

Seventh, and possibly the biggest surprise of all, is that I was awakened by a she-ranger with nice gaiters and an encyclopaedic knowledge of hot springs in California (*everyone* down here has been to Cally). She was pretty cute, and we mixed it up amicably and chatted about outdoorsy stuff. Then, I attempted to seduce her with a Nescafe Cappuccino....but she gave me the Heismann! Oh well, it was still great to meet her. Chicks who can handle themselves in the backcountry rule.