Mar. 3, 2009
Hot Water Bch
Super-pretty Hot Water Bch has a thermal spot where, at low tide, you can dig holes in the sand and create your own little hot tub. I watched the sunset with people from all over the world. It was all-time.
Hot Water is also a serious surf spot. There were 2 pros out there, and dear God, they were RIPPING. I knew something was going on while I was walking down the beach to the spot and saw this one dude pull the most impossibly long, stalled-out floater I have ever seen. There was a photographer, too.
I paddled out and was like, "dude, you're KILLING it!" and he heard my accent and he asked where I was from. Turns out dude grew up on the North Shore. I told him I had just read about a pro from Hot Water Bch who competed in the Rip Curl Pro over the weekend at Raglan, and said when I saw him surfing, I thought that I was seeing that guy. Mr. North Shore could have said then, "No, but I'm also a pro." But he didn't even say that! He was super-friendly, grew up with Jack Johnson. We talked out there and he never once said that he was a pro.
I found out this morning from a photographer from San Clemente that he is a "non-competing pro." (I'm still not sure what this means.)
Anyway, Mr. North Shore pulled something I still can't get over. In skating, I think you call it a 50/50 when you go up to the coping, stall for a sec, and then come back around backside. (Or, on a snow pipe, when you hit the top frontside, and quickly flip 270 to your right and drop back in.)
I've seen surfers pull 360s where they hit the lip, then slide backward for a sec, and then pull the board around. But this dude stuck the lip and flipped around 360 in one rapid motion. It was so RAW I still can't get over it.
Hot Water Bch
Super-pretty Hot Water Bch has a thermal spot where, at low tide, you can dig holes in the sand and create your own little hot tub. I watched the sunset with people from all over the world. It was all-time.
Hot Water is also a serious surf spot. There were 2 pros out there, and dear God, they were RIPPING. I knew something was going on while I was walking down the beach to the spot and saw this one dude pull the most impossibly long, stalled-out floater I have ever seen. There was a photographer, too.
I paddled out and was like, "dude, you're KILLING it!" and he heard my accent and he asked where I was from. Turns out dude grew up on the North Shore. I told him I had just read about a pro from Hot Water Bch who competed in the Rip Curl Pro over the weekend at Raglan, and said when I saw him surfing, I thought that I was seeing that guy. Mr. North Shore could have said then, "No, but I'm also a pro." But he didn't even say that! He was super-friendly, grew up with Jack Johnson. We talked out there and he never once said that he was a pro.
I found out this morning from a photographer from San Clemente that he is a "non-competing pro." (I'm still not sure what this means.)
Anyway, Mr. North Shore pulled something I still can't get over. In skating, I think you call it a 50/50 when you go up to the coping, stall for a sec, and then come back around backside. (Or, on a snow pipe, when you hit the top frontside, and quickly flip 270 to your right and drop back in.)
I've seen surfers pull 360s where they hit the lip, then slide backward for a sec, and then pull the board around. But this dude stuck the lip and flipped around 360 in one rapid motion. It was so RAW I still can't get over it.
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